At Savera's...

I was a tomboy until 30, but only when it came to saris. I dreaded social events for fear of having to wear one. I could not even dress myself in one. Whether it was the prospect of baring un-toned flesh or having to manage balancing myself, it simply was not a prospect I relished.

However, one fine day, that changed. I developed a growing interest, and a desire to find the most beautiful saris ever made. I learned to dress myself, and to my mother's delight, showed an interest in accompanying on sari-buying trips.

As most of you know, the sari is a traditional Indian garment. It is basically around 5 meters long, and could be handwoven, hand-printed, or manufactured by a machine. Obviously, the former options create unique and more expensive saris. Saris are rarely the same, which adds to its charm. Not only do they come in different fabrics (silk, crepe, cotton etc) but in styles unique to a state or region (South Indian, Benarasi etc). The price range of saris extends from about $10 to $10000, depending on the quality of the fabric and the intricacy and uniqueness of the design.

My family's favorite sari shop in Kolkata is Savera. Situated practically opposite St. Xavier's College, it is an institution for all sari enthusiasts. They have a wide repertoire to suit all tastes and extremely knowledgeable (and persuasive!) sales staff.

They have a knack for remembering repeat customers, and show their appreciation by offering you complimentary drinks and Indian snacks! This age-old marketing technique works wonders with the customers (well I bought quite a few after being satiated with their free offerings)!

This is how it works: You walk in, and give a brief description of what you are looking for (color, fabric, type of design if you have a very specific request). They ask you to take a seat, and start showing you a wide range of saris, which roughly tallies with your requests. You either accept or reject from the ones shown. This helps the salesperson to ascertain your taste more specifically and refine his catalog. Even if you walk in and say you have no idea what you want, that's fine! The same technique is followed, only more time may be needed.

Apart from the bevy of salespeople who show clients the saris, there are also usually a few 'apprentices' who fold away the saris after it has been shown, ready for the next client. Their job is just to fold the saris. But while they engage in this fairly mind-numbing job, they are expected to observe the sales staff and learn from them. If they have the knack and the desire, they might be promoted to sales one day.

So that's sari shopping in Kolkata in a nutshell. These pictures were taken in Savera in February 2008.

Savera 95, Park Street, Kolkata - +91 33 22261695

Kolkata...a city like no other

I was just watching the opening gambit of one of Anthony Bourdain's (the noted celebrity chef-turned-travel writer) Travel Channel shows featuring Sao Paolo, and it struck a chord with me.

I have never been to Brazil, but according to Bourdain, it is a city where "one needs to know people". It is not a pretty city by any means (allegedly), and where one could be stuck in traffic for hours on end. It's dirty, polluted, frenetic and full of contrasts. He said he hated it the first time.

But then, he managed to make a lucky acquaintance with several locals, who showed him how exciting the city of Sao Paolo could be. Through them, he learned about the resplendent food markets, the captivating night life, the people with substance and character, and the glorious restaurants. He saw a side that no outsider could see. The city made sense to him.

Kolkata in Eastern India, is one such city. It is the city where I grew up, and the city which formed me. Polluted, overcrowded and dirty it is. But there is an underbelly, and I use that word in a most positive sense, of optimism, culture and energy. You have to know someone here to understand that this city is just as exciting as New York or London. I've lived in the latter, and can vouch for this. Glorious food, intelligent people, a love and thirst for knowledge, a fanatic following for soccer and cricket, that's Kolkata. And of course, the obsession to entertain and be entertained. Kolkatans love 'adda' (casual conversation about anything under the sun) and eating. Being invited to each other's house for a delicious and comprehensive meal is the norm. So if you ever need to or want to visit Kolkata, see if you there is anyone you know who could give you a taste of the real thing. The genuine warmth underneath the conspicuous sheath of corruption and despair.

Busy Chefs...

This picture was taken at the 'La Cucina' restaurant, which is part of the epicurean Hyatt Regency Kolkata. The classy interiors with its neutral shades and Carrera marble will make you forget that you're not in Europe. We ordered the staples of pizza and risotto, all of which were immensely satisfying. Service was as expected in a five-star restaurant. If you prefer European food while visiting Asia, the cuisines offered at these high-end restaurants are your best bet. Personally, you should really try the ethnic fare instead, also at these locations. The Hyatt Regency also offers mouthwatering fare (both European/American and Indian) at its 'Waterside Cafe', which is open 24 hours, and tradition Indian and Bengali specialties at its 'Guchhi' restaurant. I haven't actually dined at 'Guchhi'; perhaps you have and would like to share some comments?

Kolkata Cha (tea)

Tea is integral to Indian, more so Indian Bengali culture. A typical breakfast or snack would include hot and sweet milk tea, a 'shingara' or 'samosa' or two, and sweets such as rossogolla (cottage cheese dumplings soaked in sugar syrup) or jilipi (made from flour, sugar and water).

Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) is the major city of Eastern India, and where I spent my formative years. The majority of the people here are Hindu Bengali. Post 1991, Kolkata has seen a lot of development and growth, most noticeably in terms of consumerism. 'Salt Lake' is a large planned residential area north of the city, and it is home to one of the country's main shopping malls called 'City Centre'.

It is in this mall that we discovered an amazing 'cafe' where Bengali snacks and tea are served in the traditional way. Check out the picture where I am having tea from a traditional terracotta vessel, which is common at every street corner in the city. This is how real Indians take their tea. Also note the 'mora' or handwoven seats which are also common in homes in Kolkata. The place was packed with young and old alike. If you ever visit India, try to sample tea and Indian food this way.