A fine wine bar in Chicago

Most of Saturday was taken up with chores, so I really wanted to relax and unwind somewhere in Chicago. My husband had been here with friends a good few years ago, and he was impressed. So we decided to check it out.

Webster's is located on a street which lends its name to this cozy and stylish nightspot. It is not pretentious at all. The clientele seem to mainly in the late 20s to 30s bracket. Most of the revelers appear to be close buddies, but this wine bar is romantic enough and couple-friendly.

Get there late (I mean late; we arrived at 11:30) and you might just save yourself the $10 by parking yourself further down the street. There is some construction work going on around the bar right now, but you forget that once you're in.

I just love ambient lighting, and Webster's scores big points for me in this area. The whole places buzzes with intense conversation and Brazilian music in the foreground. It is packed. As there is a (delectable) food menu, there are regular tables, but you can opt to sit at the bar (which we did) and check out the competition.

This bar is serious about its wines. And so it should be, for being Chicago's oldest wine bar. The wine list as extensive as it is distinctive. The Lebanese Red and the Argentinian Chardonnay are some of the current highlights that I really enjoyed. Go for a glass, share a bottle, or select the tasting option. A glass is roughly $7, a tasting portion $3.

The food is exquisite and certainly complement the fine wines on offer. Our selection of olive and fig tapenade on crispy and thinly sliced baguettes, almonds enclosed within succulent dates wrapped in bacon hit the spot. Each of these appetizers was a very reasonable $5. We then proceeded to sample one of their famous cheese plates (of which there are many). By then we had ordered a glass of 20 year-old port which was excellent, and what could go better with port than mature and creamy English Stilton, served with red seedless grapes and a warm mini-baguette? Simply delightful.

Webster's hold one or more tasting sessions every month, and you can get more information form their website. I plan to visit one soon and tell you all about it. In the meantime, if you have been to Webster's or any other wine bar which made an impression on you, why not tell me about it here? I am glad I made this little Chicago discovery, and would love to hear about some other hidden gems from anywhere in the world.

Webster's Wine Bar

Fantastic views from the Sleeping Bear Dunes

I think the photos speak for themselves. We drove about 25 miles west of Traverse City to the famous Sleeping Bear Dunes. We just followed the directions in the navigation system, and looked out keenly for a sign for the Dunes closer to our destination. Finally we came across one marked 'Scenic drive' which turned out to be a road called the 'Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive'. The amber-colored trees hugged the narrow road as we drove on, looking as if it were set on fire on a cool blue day.

You pay $10 for a self-guided tour of the Sleeping Bear Dunes Lakeshore once inside the area. This is valid for about 7 days, so it's a good deal. The tour is divided into 11 or 12 vantage points, as marked on the leaflet given to you at the start of the tour. You drive through these spectacularly windy roads, and stop at the clearly marked points to photograph the stunning scenery, or simply to take it all in. We climbed a dune to be fact-to-face with stark white sands and turquoise waters. Looking at the photo, you could mistakenly think you were in somewhere in the Caribbean.

Picnic benches are placed very strategically, and in most cases give you a view of Lake Michigan across the sandy dunes and multicolored foliage during fall. It is really beautiful. Looking at the pictures, wouldn't you agree?

Fine dining in the Old Mission Peninsula

We just went in to grab a quick bite, but came out very impressed and satisfied.

The Peninsula Grill can be found on M-37 northbound from downtown TC towards the Chateau Chantal or the Old Mission Lighthouse. There are several other eateries and a little market place adjacent to the restaurant, making it easily visible from the main road.

The environment is casual and full of well-heeled locals. Their satiated faces was an indication of what we could expect. Our server was extremely gracious and recommended we try a Michigan brew called Bell's Winter White ale. Amber colored and slightly sweet, the delicious ale got us going. My entree was fresh mussels seeping in garlic and wine, fresh herbs and other such spicy juices. It was splendid! Freshly baked bread came with a butter which had a hint of maple, but I wasn't sure and didn't care as it was so tasty! My husband opted for a hearty fried whitefish sandwich which was devoured in seconds.

The bill came to $35. Definitely worth repeat visits.

The Peninsula Grill: 14091 Center Rd, Traverse City, MI 49686


Since Chateau Chantal's restaurant is closed on Sunday, a complimentary brunch is provided at the intimate Boathouse Restaurant just minutes away from the Peninsula Grill. The environment is very family-oriented, but quietly elegant. The white and shell color scheme is complemented by fine furniture and fittings. Jazz piano plays on the CD and the waitress pours wine for other guests at the well-stocked bar.

As the name suggests, the views are of the beautiful Grand Traverse Bay and surrounding scenery. The multicolored foliage looked very inviting as we gazed out.

Our server again was very well-spoken, and brought out fruit, coffee and juice. My Egg Benedict was perfectly done. The eggs must have been organic because the yolk was so creamy and flavorful. My husband's Belgian Waffles melted in the mouth. Complemented by danish pastry and broiled potatoes with fresh mixed herbs, we were ready to tackle the 6 hour journey back home. Truly remarkable food to sign off our memorable stay at the Chateau. Visit their website for more details.

The Boathouse Restaurant

An elegant stay in Traverse City

On Saturday, we left early to check into the much anticipated Chateau Chantal. We drove north of downtown Traverse City on M-37, and within minutes it became a beautiful scenic drive. The foliage changed, the colors were stronger, and the landscape became more rustic and peaceful. Signs indicating 'Honeycrisp Apples', or 'Maple Syrup' dotted the road as we zoomed past. The comparatively higher speed limits in Michigan meant that the windy road trip on the peninsula in the Mazda Miata became all the more thrilling.

We discovered Chateau Chantal by chance. Long live Google. Both Abhijit and I wanted to stay there as soon as we finished surfing the website. It is unique in that it is a working winery with accommodation attached to it. It is located in one of the most picturesque regions of Northern Michigan. The Old Mission Peninsula is flanked by the Grand traverse Bay on other side, so you can imagine the views.

The drive up to the Chateau was spectacular. A windy uphill road took us past the vineyards and up to a commanding mansion. The view from the top was jaw dropping. We were greeted by the receptionist who was very polite, and showed us to our suite, the Behrens Suite, immediately.

Decorated in Old English style, it was exactly what we wanted. Looking at the view from our room and from the front of the Chateau, I felt as if we had been transported to Provence, France. How right we were to reserve this experience for the second night in Michigan. The fall colors from the high altitude were breathtaking. Look at the pictures below to get a feel. All furnishings and fittings were terribly upscale, as were the little touches: the exceedingly romantic jazz CD playing on loop or the luxurious and numerous silky down pillows .

We met and talked to a number of interesting people in the tasting room that night. They all informed us that they had reserved their suites months in advance. I guess we got lucky as we had only just stumbled across the website a couple of days ago.

The cost:$232 per night including taxes. The justification: The elegance and exclusivity. The huge space. The amazing scenery and views. The magnificent tasting session which was open all hours to resident guests. The complimentary glass of wine per night of stay. Access to complimentary gourmet coffee, tea, juice, toast and cereal in the morning. A stunning brunch, included in the stay. If you want to get away from it all in style, choose this. Look at the website for more details. Above is a view from the Chateau, and below, the Chateau itself, and the living room in our suite.
The Chateau Chantal

A modest stay in Traverse City

For our first night, we stayed at the Cherry Tree Condo Hotel. One of the main draws was the extremely off-season reasonable price - $82. TC is a very popular summer and fall destination, so it is a good idea to go just as winter season prices kick in, because you may not get a snowstorm right away, but could enjoy TC's colors at a cheaper price.

The cons were that we did not get a bay-facing room, nor one with a jacuzzi. But it did have a king bed, and we were only staying the night. We had reserved a very upscale suite at another TC venue (see the other TC post) for Saturday, so it made sense for us to stay modestly on Friday, and save the best for last.

After parking at the amply-spaced car park, we made our way to the reception where we were greeted politely. We were told of free drinks at an adjoining room so we decided to unload and have a taste. Also adjoining the reception was a medium-sized communal sitting room which doubled up as a library and had internet access. We also noted that there was a fairly large swimming pool and a hot tub, both of which looked inviting. So we planned the rest of the evening, and decided to have a swim before going to bed.

When we came down for the drinks, we realized that it was a sales trap. Cherry Tree Inn is a condo hotel, so all of the hotel rooms are on sale for those looking for a vacation home. As soon as we entered the room, we saw a wall full of floor plans and a couple of people coming towards us, asking us what we would like to drink. It was too late to turn back, so we decided to taste some cherry wine, a local favorite, and engage in some polite small talk before indicating that we were not interested. The agents were pleasant enough, but we would have appreciated the receptionist telling us that there was a catch to the free drink. As they say, there's no such thing as a free lunch.

The fittings of the room were pretty basic, but it was a good size. What was unique was the view to the swimming pool (see picture). We went down for a swim, but the pool was as cold as Lake Michigan itself. We looked around to see if there was a switch, but gave up and relaxed in the hot tub itself. While in the hot tub, someone from management came in and we relayed the problem to them. Having investigated the problem, we were told that the heater had somehow been turned off, and that they were sorry. If I did not know better, I'd say they were conserving energy since we were the only people down there. So not being able to use the pool was a let-down.

We had a good night's sleep but the complimentary breakfast next morning was not very appetizing at all. Still, the freshly brewed coffee and the thought of checking into our second hotel kept us distracted enough from this. It was only $82 after all, and well worth the price. Here's a view of the swimming pool and the breakfast area from our room.

The drive to Traverse City and Fall colors

So as I said, we planned to visit Northern Michigan last weekend, where neither of us had been before. I inaugurated the flask we had bought by filling it with some hot sweet tea for the road. Armed with other edible goodies, we hit the road at around 10 am on a sunny Friday morning.

According to various fall foliage reports, the color in Michigan was tending towards peak. However, while that was evident along some of I-94 and made for a pleasant drive, leaves had started to drop. But pockets of color indicated how beautiful it must have been a week or two ago. We still loved the drive.

We drove down the I-90, then down the I-94, followed by I-196 towards Grand Rapids, then moving onto US-131 and finally M-37. M-37 is not the fastest of routes, but since it went through the Manistee Forest reserve, we wanted to try it. However, there was not a lot to see, so it is best to stick to the faster US-131 on your way to Traverse City.

We got there around 6 pm ET, leaving at around 10:30 CT, and taking a couple of rest breaks, so it wasn't bad at all. There was still enough daylight to indicate that the fall colors were certainly at its peak in TC (Traverse City). We drove along Front St and towards our hotel with the Grand Traverse Bay to our left. Tired and excited about our mini-break in this pretty little city.

Planning a trip to wine country and other affairs

I'm looking forward to Friday and the weekend. Hubby's taken Friday off, and we're jetting off in the two-seater on a road trip to Traverse City, Michigan. We've reserved two very different types of accommodation for the two nights that we'll be there and have saved the best for last. Don't want to give the game away, but will post about it after we get back.

On a separate note, I was busy collating all my documents in order to transfer a valid visa from an expired passport onto a new passport. To make matters more complicated, the visa is in my maiden name whereas my new passport reflects my married one, so I hope that that will not delay things. We're hoping to visit India this January and I am really stoked about that. Filling the forms was not fun. I am probably going into downtown Chicago tomorrow, to get this over and done with.

Anyway, if you've been to Traverse City, drop me a line. It is about a 6 hour drive from where we are in Northern Illinois, and I expect the fall colors to be quite spectacular.

A bite by the Mississippi and a ski lodge...

You're probably picturing New Orleans at the mention of the mighty river in the title, but I am indeed talking about the Mississippi in the Midwest, in Galena, northwestern Illinois to be exact.

I will be totally honest and say that it's not exactly a picturesque drive towards Galena on the I-90W and the US-20, staring from the northwestern Chicago 'burbs. However, en route to the city of Galena, take the left at the junction of US-20 and IL-84 towards Hanover and then towards Winston, to get to the Chestnut Mountain Resort.

This resort looks like your typical cheesy replica of a Swiss chalet resort, but it's cute enough. It is quite popular with single travelers, couples and families especially during the skiing season, as its perched high enough to make some decent skiing possible. Lodging is available and packages are offered on the website. Lessons are available too. There is a shop and rental facilities in case you forgot your gear.

We were there during early Fall, and there still seemed to be a number of people around. Starving after a long drive, the casual lunchtime menu was just what we needed. And voila, there it was. The restaurant at the inn is by no means a classy joint. In fact, it was very reminiscent of a dark 70's style hunter's lodge, with outdated wooden furniture and fixtures. But the tables by the window had the most beautiful view of the Mississippi. That alone was worth the journey.

The menu features burgers, fries, chicken wings etcetera, and it all really hit the spot. Loved the spicy chicken wings with the ranch dressing. But you have to try the Blue Moon Ale (Bavarian white ale), which was light, punchy and delicious.

Service was swift and amiable. After satiating our appetites, we walked out and around the Inn, to get a better view of the river. The undulating green fields around us would become ski slopes in a few months time. An alpine slide activity was in operation at the time, as was a Mississippi river cruise, but we didn't have the time. Perhaps you took it. Drop me a line if you've been there and have any comments about the place.

Lake Geneva

Lake Geneva in the state of Wisconsin is about an 80 miles drive northwest of Chicago, and makes for a lovely day trip. We lucked out with the weather when we visited yesterday for the first time. The area just one block north of the lake around Main and Broad St has a number of very eclectic shops and restaurants. There is ample seating and a mini-beach in addition to picnic greens all overlooking the lake. See my post about Kilwin's confectionery, also under the 'Mid West' category.

What would be your favorite day trip from where you are? Drop me a line with your suggestion.

Mouth-watering confectionery in Wisconsin....

Yesterday being such a fabulous day, we decided to hop into the convertible, top down, and drive up to Lake Geneva in Wisconsin.

Apart from the beautiful lake which I'll blog about later, we discovered a cute and extremely busy little confectionery shop on the main street called Kilwins. Decorated in a style evocative of the 1940s, the brand was actually founded in North Michigan by a couple during the late 1940s.

Their selection of home-style fudge is overwhelming: dark german, maple walnut, chocolate pecan to name but a few. Beautifully wrapped chocolate gift boxes adorn one of the walls. Raspberry creams, cherry cordials, almond toffee crunch...the list goes on. Then there's the ice-cream corner. Rum-raisin, Lake Geneva mud, pumpkin seem to be some of the most requested flavors while we were there. It was very busy indeed.

A pound of fudge costs about $13 but is totally worth it. The attendant packed in a couple of knives for us to cut the fudge with.

We bagged a bench with a view and like children, opened the box as fast as we could. And savored the soft and sweet fudge as we gazed at the lake....

Maybe you know of similarly original and quality confectioners across the country that you have fallen in love with? Drop in a comment and let me know.

Kilwins.com will give you more information about stores nationwide.

A jazzy night in Chicago

I know I have posted about the Peninsula before, but I had to post this, taken last week on a Friday night, and what a night it was. To appreciate such music in such divine surroundings, and to think that there's no music cover charge. All you need to order is a coffee or two, and you're set. Luxury needn't be expensive. My gourmet alcoholic coffee cost $10 and my dreamy dessert of ginger creme brulee $11. Check out the web page below for details, particularly about when the live music is. Enjoy.

The Lobby at the Pen

Door County, Wisconsin

North of Illinois lie the state of Wisconsin. Greener and prettier, it's only a few hours drive north of Chicago and a treat for the senses if you wanted to escape the big city or the samey suburban vibe.

I want to recommend a place called Ephraim, about 5 hours north of Chicago. It's located on the 'prong' of land northeast of Green Bay, Wisconsin, and is part of the famously scenic Door County. A tiny village on the bay, it is picturesque and serene. There is a state park nearby and trails to explore. Ephraim is famous for 'all things cherry'. I mean the fruit. We were there in November of last year, and I remember cherry cakes, granola and cookies. And all of them delicious!

There are a number of fine bed and breakfast places in Ephraim, but I wholeheartedly recommend the 'Eagle Harbor Inn'. Go for the suites rather than the rooms in the Inn, because they are majestic!

Suites feature a sitting room with a selection of interesting books and a breakfast table, among other things. There is an adequate kitchenette with a microwave, mini-fridge, a sink and essential utensils. The bedroom features a plush bed with homely Victorian furnishings, and a stunning modern whirlpool. There is of course, the additional shower room and toilet.
Most striking is the two-way fireplace, seen from both the sitting room and the bedroom. There was also a decent-sized deck. Imagine relaxing in the whirlpool, then tucking into a breakfast basket delivered to your door, and enjoying it on the deck as the dawn breaks....

Eagle Harbor has a moderately-sized pool and a sauna, which we loved using. But the best thing about it was their ample gourmet breakfast. It is an extra $11 per person, but boy, is it worth the money. Cherry Granola followed by Eggs Benedict and fluffy pancakes one morning. French Toast dusted with confectioners' sugar and Cherry Pie the next. The proprietors are extremely friendly and have a wealth of local knowledge. Ephraim and Eagle Harbor is perfect for recharging your body and soul. Check the link below for rates and availability.

p.s. On your way to Ephraim coming in from Northern Illinois, you will encounter another charming village called Fish Creek. Good for quaint shopping and dining.

Eagle Harbor Inn