Friday evening in Mumbai

It's Friday evening in Mumbai. The sunset is spectacular and the temperature is just perfect. What could be a better way to unwind and reflect on the week than gazing at the Arabian Sea, while the world passes you by? Nariman Point is when people from all walks of life assemble, be it with a lover, family, friends, or alone. The frenetic city carries on behind as you seek out a cozy spot and people-watch. Or simply gaze at the 'Queen's Necklace', the name given to the section of Marine Drive lit gloriously in an almost semi-circular shape.

In the short video segment above, you see people of all socio-economic strata rubbing shoulders together and taking in the buzz. Mobile vendors sell beverages and savory snacks which you can enjoy without losing your spot. The sound you hear among the voices is the stiff but refreshing wind blowing in from the sea.

Mumbai is an interesting city of extremes. A place where within minutes of each other, you witness Porsche sports cars gliding along Marine Drive and underprivileged children selling you Nokia phone chargers while your car is stopped in traffic. Dire poverty and obscene wealth are both on display. You may hate it or love it. But it's worth experiencing.

If visiting, it is probably best to stick to the international chain hotels dotted around Nariman Point and Kolaba. That way one can still enjoy the comforts of a western destination, explore the surrounding neighborhoods which are rich in history and character, have access to various modes of transportation, and of course, be close to the beautiful Nariman Point and Marine Drive.

Busy Chefs...

This picture was taken at the 'La Cucina' restaurant, which is part of the epicurean Hyatt Regency Kolkata. The classy interiors with its neutral shades and Carrera marble will make you forget that you're not in Europe. We ordered the staples of pizza and risotto, all of which were immensely satisfying. Service was as expected in a five-star restaurant. If you prefer European food while visiting Asia, the cuisines offered at these high-end restaurants are your best bet. Personally, you should really try the ethnic fare instead, also at these locations. The Hyatt Regency also offers mouthwatering fare (both European/American and Indian) at its 'Waterside Cafe', which is open 24 hours, and tradition Indian and Bengali specialties at its 'Guchhi' restaurant. I haven't actually dined at 'Guchhi'; perhaps you have and would like to share some comments?

If you can't make it to the grocery store...

Let it come to you. This picture was taken on a mild January morning this year in Kolkata, India, from our second floor veranda. Scenes like this are common everywhere in India. Shopping for produce in India is a pleasure worth experiencing, but it's a whole lot more fun doing it from the mobile vegetable cart.

Traveling to India this winter?

Not only am I going to be in Kolkata for a few days, the city where I grew up, but we have managed to chalk out some time to visit another city. This not might sound like much, but given how big India is, how short previous trips have been, and how easy it is to just be in one place where you have family and will be ritually pampered, this is a big undertaking.

Both of have never been to the South, so that is a strong contender. We have no idea where exactly to go though. There is so much to see. We do want to fit in a beach, so the Keralan coastline is winning so far.

Even though we are both of Indian origin, and I was there since 6, I am overwhelmed about the complicatedness of it all. How to get there, where to stay, is it safe etc etc? We have no family there nor do we speak the languages. I can only imagine how harrowing it must be for someone with no connections to the country whatsoever, who simply wants to explore without confusion.

I recommend getting in touch with a very reputable travel agent who has experience in creating completely inclusive packages to India for the western traveler. While this may be on the expensive side, nothing beats peace of mind. You can also do a web search and contact Indian travel agencies, and see what they offer.

But firstly, start off with a good book, and I recommend Lonely Planet's 12th edition of 'India'. It is a gloriously detailed and enjoyable read of 1236 pages, and you will feel a lot better knowing what this book tells you. Borders stores it for $30, but you can get it for $20 at Amazon.

Kolkata Cha (tea)

Tea is integral to Indian, more so Indian Bengali culture. A typical breakfast or snack would include hot and sweet milk tea, a 'shingara' or 'samosa' or two, and sweets such as rossogolla (cottage cheese dumplings soaked in sugar syrup) or jilipi (made from flour, sugar and water).

Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) is the major city of Eastern India, and where I spent my formative years. The majority of the people here are Hindu Bengali. Post 1991, Kolkata has seen a lot of development and growth, most noticeably in terms of consumerism. 'Salt Lake' is a large planned residential area north of the city, and it is home to one of the country's main shopping malls called 'City Centre'.

It is in this mall that we discovered an amazing 'cafe' where Bengali snacks and tea are served in the traditional way. Check out the picture where I am having tea from a traditional terracotta vessel, which is common at every street corner in the city. This is how real Indians take their tea. Also note the 'mora' or handwoven seats which are also common in homes in Kolkata. The place was packed with young and old alike. If you ever visit India, try to sample tea and Indian food this way.