A tavern on the Thames

In November 2009, I attended a dear friend's wedding in London. The venue was a pub in Greenwich called Trafalgar tavern. Being a 'North of the Thames' girl myself, I had never been to pubs in this part of town, and was very eager to step into one as a wedding guest.

We finally arrived at the tavern around 7pm, about an hour late, and a little annoyed at the traffic and rain which caused the delays. But all was forgotten as we stepped into the ballroom above the pub.

Light cream-colored walls, Victorian chandeliers, and red velvet curtains were evocative of a bygone era. The view of Canary Wharf from the large windows was a winner. What a hidden gem! Most tourists are unlikely to venture past the usual touristy hangouts in London, but if you're reading this, and have always been intrigued by the real London, just hop on a train to Greenwich, and tell a cabbie to take you to the Trafalgar Tavern. I would love to revisit on a summer's day, gazing out the window with a pint of local ale. As we walked out into the night after a lovely wedding reception, we saw happy regulars enjoying live jazz with their drinks.

photo courtesy of the Trafalgar Tavern website

Trafalgar Tavern

Bad food in London?

Whoever says food in London is abysmal, expensive and simply lacking in variety, doesn't not know what they're talking about. I am currently on an extensive trip in the UK visiting friends and family, and have been down to London several times, a city I had lived in for more than 11 years. I have to say that I was bowled over by some of the restaurants I visited - some old favourites I hadn't visited before, and some new kids on the culinary block.

I plan to blog more extensively about this later, but here are some of my favourites so far - Yoshino- a delightful little sushi place near Regent Street, and Siam Central, an immensely popular and yummy Thai place, on Charlotte Street.

Have you been to these restaurants? What did you think?

La Porte des Indes, London

This is a charming and upscale Indian restaurant in the heart of central London. Seconds away from bustling Oxford St, but you would never have guessed it. La Porte des Indes specializes in Indian food with a French twist. The cuisine in the former French colonies of Pondicherry in the south, Chandannagore in Bengal etc, is heavily French-influenced. So this figures prominently in the menu. However, other popular dishes are also available. Entrees from the a la carte menu are a tad on the pricey side. A three course set menu is around 34 pounds. But you pay for the exquisite colonial ambiance, the immaculate service, and the chance to eat on tables with pristine white and starched tablecloths, laden with silver plated cutlery.

Aah, but there is a more affordable option, without having to sacrifice your exposure to any of the above. Sundays is buffet lunch day, when La Porte puts on a lavish 'all you can eat' extravaganza for only 25 pounds per person. You start downstairs where there is a delectable range of mouthwatering appetizers, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. You then walk up the strategically-positioned spiral staircase, allowing you to spy on the other customers, before you begin to sample the entrees. Don't forget to try the fresh coconut juice, which you drink from the coconut directly. It is unbelievably refreshing!

The place is usually full on Sundays with families celebrating birthdays, friends celebrating an engagement, or simply the single diner who wants to have well prepared Indian food. There is also a live jazz band to entertain you while you enjoy the food. The band was excellent the last time I went. However, my family have been entertained by an Indian Elvis on one occasion, who was reported to have been pretty good too.

There you have it - if you're in London on a Sunday, and would like to try different and delicious Indian food in a lovely setting, make a date with La Porte Des Indes. It is best to make a reservation beforehand. Click here for more details.

What are the popular shops in London(UK)?

If you are going to visit the UK for the first time, you might be wondering what the main shops or departmental stores are. Here's a quick guide:

High-end

• John Lewis
• Harvey Nichols
  
• Fenwick
  
• Barker's
• Selfridges
• Harrods
• Peter Jones

High/Mid-Range (but excellent quality)

• Debenhams
• House of Fraser
• Marks and Spencer

Budget

• Primark
• TK Maxx
• TJ Hughes
• BHS

Stylish and Trendy

• River Island
• Zara
• Mango
• New Look
• French Connection
• Oasis
• Top Shop/Top Man
• Morgan
• Jane Norman
• Monsoon
  

Great cosmetics , essentials and OTC drugs

• Superdrug
• Boots

There are lots of other excellent stores to explore, but this is just a snapshot of the most popular. Caveat: the terms 'high end' and 'mid-range' could be considered subjective. They are used here in relative terms, or how they are generally considered in the UK. In other words, what is considered 'mid-range' in London could be considered in 'high-end' or even 'budget' in another city.

Holiday Shopping in London

Granted, the US dollar is not at its strongest right now, and everyone's flocking in from the UK to the US for this at the moment, but the shopping experience in London is just very satisfying, even if you plan to just window shop. Holiday or Christmas shopping as it is better known as in the UK, can be a competitor sport, but this article is about informing you about alternatives to the popular areas tourists usually go to (i.e. Oxford Street and Knightsbridge).

Okay, here's a bit about the lingo. The British do not generally use the term 'mall'. The rest of this post uses the phrase 'shopping centre' which is essentially the same thing, and is the preferred term in the UK. Also, you'll notice the spelling for 'centre'...

Try:
1) Whiteleys Shopping Centre: Situated just north of Hyde Park on Queensway in the popular Bayswater area, this mall is medium-sized and houses stylish upmarket fashion names such as French Connection and Karen Millen, as well as super-trendy Zara to name but a few, the Spanish fashion chain which is affordable and popular with the 18-35 bracket. There is a food court, a cinema, and countless shops and various ethnic as well as mainstream restaurants in the surrounding area.


2)Whitgift Shopping Centre: If you're not staying in central London but closer to South-East London, then this mall is where you should be. This huge covered shopping center is located in the busy town of Croydon, and has all the big names you expect. There are many dining options, and being here gives you a taste of where some of the real residents of the city shop.


3) Brent Cross Shopping Centre: Located in North London with tons of free parking, this is another gigantic covered mall with all the main heavyweights having a significant presence. It used to be the country's biggest covered mall when it was first built in the 1970s, and it is always being improved in terms of its look and accessibility. Highly popular with the locals.


4) Richmond: I recommend this mainly for the warmer months, and if you are into more high end, unusual and boutique-y shops. Richmond is a beautiful area in South London, and as soon as you exit the train station and walk towards the Thames (should be signposted, or ask anyone around you), you will fall in love with the 'village-within-a-town' feel. I say summer, because there isn't a covered mall as such, and also the riverside here is stunning (see my posts under London). There is a good mix of the popular high street names as well as upmarket boutiques with beautifully tailored clothes.


5) Kensington High Street: Or as the locals say 'High Street Ken' is a beautiful and popular shopping alternative to Oxford Street, located in the posh area of Kensington. A couple of excellent shops are located in a covered section adjoining the station, but the bulk of the shopping is out on the open street. It is very easily accessibly by both the tube and buses. The main departmental stores are all clustered in the area between the western edge of Hyde Park and the tube station. Great departmental stores, boutiques, supermarkets, restaurants and coffee shops, this area has it all.


6) King Street Shopping Centre: Situated in Hammersmith Broadway in West London and minutes from the Hammersmith tube and bus station, this offers a somewhat grittier shopping experience compared to the others mentioned above, but does offer the household names. There is a covered mall called the 'King's Mall' as well as free standing shops along the street. There are several discount shops too so if you are looking for a bargain or more reasonably priced items, you are more likely to find it here, compared to say, High Street Ken. There are some excellent pubs around, and the station also has some smaller shops which are worth exploring.

Given London's excellent public transport network, all these areas are easily accessible from Central London. Doing a quick Google search on each should yield you with directions of how to get there. Or ask at your hotel or local tube station for assistance. Get hold of the free tube and bus maps to help you as well. Bus maps may not be visible at the stands, but if you ask an attendant, they should be able to provide you with one. Bus maps are broken up into regions (central, north west London etc) so check which ones you need.

I am so missing these foods....

They're about to run out and I'm panicking. Judging by the battered packaging, you can tell I have been hanging on to them for dear life but there's not much left!

I'm referring to some of my favorite foods I brought back with me on my last trip to England. Before I moved to Chicago two years ago, I lived in London for 11 years. Full of bittersweet memories, and fortunately, more of them sweeter rather than bitter.

Two of my favorite M&S Cookies are the 'Pistachio and Almond Cookies' and 'Redcurrant Puffs'. You can almost taste the nuts jutting out of the deliciously crumbly cookie. Also, the delicateness of the dollop of redcurrant jam sitting in the middle of the exquisitely fine pastry.....aaaah.

Another quintessentially British product I am missing is Whittard's Spiced Chai Tea (see picture). If you are a fan of Starbucks' Chai Latte, you'll love the convenience of brewing such a cuppa in your own home. The shops back in London are delightful treasure troves selling both traditional and flavored tea, in leaf or tea bags, and cute cups and plates and other items relating to tea.

When I looked at their website, it said that there is a Whittard in Boston. However I couldn't find a web page for this store. Perhaps you've heard about it? Have you visited and bought anything there?

I couldn't help but suppress a smile at the irony - a very British tea store in the heart of the city where they got rid of all that tea a few hundred years ago...

How to score tickets to Wimbledon?

Where you love tennis or not, this is an experience in itself. If seeking Britishness is what you're after on your next trip to Blighty, this is the place. As you may know, it takes place during June and July, and if you're lucky, you may even get a sunny day or two. No, it needn't cost an arm and a leg. Another popular misconception about London.

What you have to have is a willingness to line up for a while. About 5 hours, maybe 6. Your chances are higher earlier in the tournament and on a weekday. I have managed to be at Wimbledon and see great matches for 5 years, and cannot wait to get back. If you get there really early, the box office may offer you tickets to Center court and Court No 1; otherwise just the ground pass.

But don't knock the ground pass just yet - apart from Center and No 1, it offers you access to all other courts, and early in the week, you're bound to see some big names at the smaller courts. The cost is between 5 and 20 pounds, depending on the day of the week and time of entry - check the Wimbledon website for more on this. A pretty good deal.

Also, being in the line is part of the experience. Everyone's there for the same thing. People of all nationalities feel bonded because of this common goal. There are mobile hot dog and burger stands, kids selling the paper and Wimbledon T-shirts, policemen and volunteers sharing good-natured banter with the people, and groups playing frisbee when the line comes to stand still.

I believe that they open the gates around 10 or 11, so after that, the line moves along nicely.

So, if you're on a shoestring budget (and especially as an American feeling the pinch of the weak dollar), here's what you do:

1)Make sure you're in London during Wimbledon!
2) Take cash with you - I'm not sure if the ticket office accept credit cards.
3)Get there on a weekday, and around 5 am - YES, 5 am. Believe me, there will be about five thousand people before you still, but you will have a good chance.
4)Have fun!

Check their website as well for more details. The nearest tube station is Southfields, zone 3.

London (west-end) tickets

You may have all heard about the half-price ticket booth in Leicester square, London, where one can get the hottest theatre and musical tickets. While this is a great way of acquiring tickets, the show list they have tickets to on a daily basis is limited, and you do have to line up for some time, especially if the tickets you want are the same as what everybody else wants.

Two tips: One, locate the theatre of the show you want to go to, and get to the box office about a few hours before the show. The attendant may tell you to come back an hour or 45 minutes before the show, but at least you can talk to him/her and gauge if there are likely to be any returns of the day (tickets from people that can't make the show after all). This method works best on a weekday.

Two, if you have access to a computer, or an internet cafe nearby, log on to lastminute.com and find tickets for as low as ten pounds.

Good luck.

Of a list of plays and musicals in London, see the Official Guide.

The Nutcracker in London

Looks almost like a painting, yet this is a scene from the finale of the Royal Opera's 'Nutcracker' playing in Covent Garden last December (2006). The production was lavish and stunning. I strongly recommend this venue as a part of your visit to London. As I student in London the 1990s, I remember the massive renovation taking place at the ROH, which dates back to the nineteenth century. Last year was my first visit inside, and it was not only fully restored, but also stylishly modernized.

Click on the link below for information on what's on at the Royal Opera House, and to even buy tickets online. It is walking distance from the Leicester Square and Covent Garden tube stations.

The Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, London

Proms 2007 - London

The Proms is a series of classical concerts which take place at The Royal Albert Hall or RAH as I will call it from now on, during the summer in London. I was first introduced to it while watching BBC 1 in 1992, the year we moved back to England. I remember being completely transfixed by the music and the formality of the event. Little did I know then that in a few years time, I would be living down the road from the RAH, and would also there for two of my own graduation ceremonies at this absolutely regal venue.

Coming back to the music, my parents owned several LPs of western classical music, one of which was Andre Previn's conduction of Prokofiev's Classical Symphony. As I child growing up in Kolkata, one of my passions after getting the homework done, was to plug in the headphones into my Dad's Sony Music system, and listen to music from far way - be it pop, rock or classical.

The Proms is always telecast live on TV from London. Covering a wide repertoire of music and showcasing well-known as well as new artists, this is really a treat for all classical music fans.

However, somehow, I never actually got to go see the Proms, even as a Chelsea resident. I suppose it was because school was out and I was away from London most summers, or because I thought that I could go the next year. As a London resident, I never made it to the RAH and the Proms. Not until July 2007. As a tourist.

It was totally spontaneous. Abhijit and I were lazing in Richmond, South London, and I had heard of these 5 pound tickets (standing room) for the Proms. We traveled to South Kensington, walked to the RAH, and got the tickets. It was a weekday so there were no lines. For five pounds, you may not have plush seats, but you have a choice of standing right at the front in front of the orchestra, or right at the top at the gallery. We chose the latter because we could see all of the hall in its splendor, and one could sit or even lie down and snooze to the strains of the music. It was wonderful. Check out the video clip coming later, capturing the last few bars of Sibelius' Tapiola. You can find details at this website.

Chicken heaven in London

Everyone who isn't from London is always complaining about how bad or expensive the food is blah blah blah. But if you know who to ask and where to look, nothing could be further from the truth.

Nando's is a chain, but a pretty good one. Food is good and inexpensive. They are all over the city and country; just check out the website below. Chicken is grilled in lime & herb, hot, or extra hot sauces, whatever takes your fancy. Peri Peri chips, spicy rice or corn on the cob are just some of the sides that come with it. You can choose from a range of different portions: 1/ 4 chicken, 1/2 chicken, full chicken, salads, burgers etc. At this point you're probably thinking , "what is she rambling on about? Sounds like Steak n Shake to me." Well, trust me, it is not your average fast food eatery. It's all about the marinade here. As far as I am concerned, Nando's have perfected the art of commercially available spicy multi-toned marinade. It is simply delicious and healthy too. Add to that the inevitable cheery environment, Portuguese music in the background, and delicious drink and dessert (love the rum and raisin ice cream, and the sangria, of course) menu, and you have a winner.

I had my first Nando's in 1999, and they are still opening up all over the United Kingdom. Abhijit and I had our first meal together at a Nando's in London, when we first met. It was love and chicken at first sight! I was mortified when I found out that there were no restaurants here in the US. Finding the sauces in the local supermarket was hardly any consolation. I got to the point of desperation of mailing their PR department about any restaurants opening here, and was told that one was due to open in the DC area in November. I wait with bated breath (and appetite). No better reason to use those air miles....

Check out: www.nandos.co.uk and www.nandosusa.com

Superb Iranian food in Central London

My first choice is Bosphorous Kebab on Old Brompton Road, a short walk from South Kensington tube station. Again, a staple favorite of all IC (Imperial College) students, especially after a wild night out, their kebabs are juicy, spicy, wholesome and filling.

Bosphorous Kebab: 59 Old Bromptom Raod, London, SW7 3JS

Patogh's was a place I found in the 'Time Out London' magazine a good few years ago, and I've recommended it to everyone since. It is tiny, shabby and nondescript from the outside. The food, however, will blow you away. This is fine Iranian cuisine. I remember the taste of succulent lamb kebabs on a bed of fragrant Iranian rice laced with saffron as if it were yesterday. The highlight is the amazing hand made bread that they make for you front of your eyes. It is huge, and I mean huge. And so tasty! You can have a fabulously satisfying meal at a very reasonable price, and in the heart of London. Try it.

Patogh: 8 Crawford Place, London, W1H 5NE

London's pubs

Leaving London without sampling a pint of a local brew or traditional british grub such as 'fish and chips' or 'cumberland sausage and mash' is as insane as visiting Pisa without going to the Leaning Tower or Paris and not doing the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre.

One of my favourites include the Zetland Arms on Old Brompton Road, popular with postgrad students and professors of Imperial College (I am an alumnus). I remember spending many a Friday night there with fellow students. It was especially convenient because home was only 5 minutes away so I had no worries about getting drunk in a strange place and not finding my way back!

A couple of fine pubs I went to recently: Ye Old Mitre and the Cittie of York, both near the Chancery Lane tube station. The former is fascinating in that it is nearly 500 years old! You walk in through a tiny lane and boom! into a one-room establishment with low ceilings and old timberwork. Being in the City and so secluded, it is relatively tourist-free except for the times when the walking tours descend on the place. It is very popular with the local workers, discussing the latest merger or the state of the stock market. The local brews are very good indeed. Because of its meagre size, most punters flow into the surrounding narrow lane. The atmosphere is excellent - it you squint your eyes, you may just be able to visualize the 1500s, the pub awash with highwaymen and smugglers doing shady deals in equally dark corners, drinking pints and laughing raucously.

Being on the main road, the Cittie of York may seem a bit more mainstream, but it is also not on the typical tourist route, and attracts throngs of financial and legal workers from the surroundings. It is deceptively large and also reminiscent of older glory. I love the little booths which give you that much more privacy. Again, nice local brews.

To experience more authentic pubs, try taking a walking tour which takes you on a pub crawl. The London tourist information centre (search online) should have brochures and ideas.

Drink up!

Cittie of York: 22 High Holborn, London, WC1V 6BS Ph: 020 7242 7670

Ye Old Mitre: 1, Ely Court, Ely Place, London, EC1N 6SJ Ph: 020 7405 4751

The Zetland Arms: 2 Bute Street, Kensington, London, SW7 3EX Ph: 020 7589 3813 just 2 mins from South Kensington station.

Bombay Brasserie, Indian dining in London

Location: Courtfield Close, Courtfield Road (opp Gloucester road tube station), London, SW74UH. Ph: +44(0)207 370 4040 www.bombaybrasserie.co.uk

Sandwiched between two premier hotels of the 'Millenium' group, and opposite Gloucester road station, this fine treasure's prime location is just one of 'the good things going for this restaurant. Given the plethora of eateries in this magnificent city, not to mention the 'authentic' Indian joints which are either called 'Raj Tandoori' or 'Raj Mahal', it can be very confusing as to what Indian food actually is, and whether that on offer is any good. The age old adage 'you get what you pay for' does seem to hold true when it comes to excellent Indian food in this city.

Bombay Brasserie is expensive. But it is worth every penny you pay. The environment changes dramatically from the doorstep into the main foyer. You find yourself in a bar furnished in old colonial style. The sights and sounds of the outside are already a distant memory. I recommend that you enjoy the bar before dining, its plush seating and the regal black and white photos of a bygone era.

It is surprisingly big inside, once you step into the dining room. An electronic and automatic piano plays popular tunes softly, as we are led to our table for ten. The service is impeccable.

My husband chose an entree of Goan halibut, which was not hot, but wildly aromatic. Creamy coconut and chillis made this a superb dish. My choice of Prawn Balchao was equally delicious, but hot. If you like your food nice and hot, this is the classic to go for at the Brasserie. Succulent and juicy, I could also taste the undertones of mustard and ginger which were married so successfully with the heat.

The wine list is extensive, and even has a wonderfully crisp Indian sparkling wine by the name of Omar Khayyam. It complemented our choices beautifully.

We spent about three and a half hours enjoying our meal, and never felt rushed. The friday evening had the place buzzing, but attentive waiters always checked in with us periodically. The only criticism I would have is the portion size, which is on the smaller side. However, somehow, the flavorful dishes seemed to distract me from this. Who needs large portions when the food is this exquisite? The bill including service, wine, starters and dessert came to about 60 pounds per person. As I said before, it was worth every penny. Definitely an establishment worth revisiting.

London...and not a tourist in sight!

We arrived at London Kings Cross early afternoon on the 31st July and went straight to Bobby's place in St Johns Wood to refresh ourselves before we unleashed ourselves on the city. What a joy it was to soak in the sounds and sights I was so used to for 11 years. Abhijit and I decided unanimously to head out to one of our favorite hangouts in the city: Richmond. Tucked away in zone 4 on the District line, Richmond is a haven for young city types who want to have the city life but one with a fabulous setting and devoid of tourists, as well as the arty or rich types who want a laid back lifestyle in a city that rarely sleeps. The place to be is the beautiful river-front, just a mile's walk from the train station. Trendy wine bars and traditional pubs line the picturesque bank, where personal boats lie anchored, and the occasional rower passes by. Beautiful flora and old red-brick mansions adorn the other bank. Nothing beats having a large glass of crisp white wine while sitting on one of the many public benches facing the Thames. All the pubs and restaurants offer outdoor seating for punters to enjoy the rare summer sun. And when the saxophone comes out to play, nothing is better. Abhijit and I came here when we first started dating, and fell in love with the place instantly, after with each other of course. We spent a good couple of hours that day sipping wine and enjoying the view, and will continue to cherish this place every time we come to London. Sheer bliss.